Conquering Nepal: Our Family Hiking Trip Through the Himalayas

A Reluctant Hiker Takes on the Everest Panorama Trek

When we first started planning our Family Fun Year, there was one destination that made my heart race—not out of excitement, but out of pure fear. Nepal.

I am not an athlete. I am not a hiker. But this was Ash’s number one pick, and I knew we had to make it happen. Planning a Nepal trek required serious logistics. Certain months were better than others, and we aimed for October-November, when the weather would be ideal.

That meant every stop on our journey had to align so we could be in Nepal on time—no backtracking, no unnecessary delays.

Then came choosing the right trek. We consulted friends who had done similar hikes: one had taken on an extreme trek that I feared would be too much for me and the kids, while another had opted for a route that Ash found too easy. We needed a Goldilocks option.

After countless emails, price comparisons, and recommendations, we chose Nepal Hiking

Team’s Everest Panorama Trek for our Nepal family hiking adventure. This trek was ten days long, including time in Kathmandu, and was rated easy to moderate, which gave me some peace of mind that I would be able to complete it. It offered a mix of hotels and guesthouses throughout the stay, and the maximum elevation was 3,880 meters, meaning our risk of altitude sickness should be relatively low.

The Everest Panorama Trek: Finding the Perfect Nepal Family Hiking Experience

The adventure started with a nerve-wracking flight to Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary Airport—one of the most dangerous airports in the world. Perched on a cliffside with an insanely short runway, landing here is an experience in itself. We knew flights were unpredictable, so we booked nothing immediately after the trek in case of delays. That turned out to be a smart move.

Ash had insisted on booking the earliest flight of the day. We arrived at the airport early and waited. And waited. And waited some more. Our flight time came and went. Hours passed.

Eventually, an announcement confirmed what we had feared—the airport was closed. We resigned ourselves to more waiting. Then, suddenly, Puru, our guide, rushed over and told us to follow him now. Within minutes, we were boarding the tiniest plane I had ever seen. It all happened so fast that I didn’t even have time to process my nerves. We made it out, one of only two flights that day. The next four days? No flights at all.

It wasn’t until later, when I was in an elevator in Bangkok chatting with a fellow traveler, that I realized just how lucky we had been. He had spent an entire week going to the airport every day, trying to fly out, and had never managed to get on a flight. If we hadn’t made it out when we did, our entire Nepal plan could have fallen apart.

Trekking to Phakding: A First-Timer’s Fear

Our first trek took us to Phakding, an 8-kilometer trek that took about three hours. As nervous as I was, I was also running on pure adrenaline. Puru, our guide, was truly great, as were our porters. I was nervous enough about carrying myself these distances, and here were these guys carrying duffle bags filled with sleeping bags, jackets, rain gear, and food like it was nothing. The twins adored them and quickly started playing cards with them each night in the teahouses after dinner.

The scenery was absolutely stunning. Of course, the mountains were breathtaking, but it was more than that. The villages, the people, and even the animals along the trail made the trek feel surreal. We encountered herds of animals that looked like a cross between a yak and a cow, which would literally run you down if you didn’t move fast enough. We later learned they were called dzo, but the kids preferred the name they came up with—yow.

The teahouses we stayed in were basic but turned out to be fun. We saw many of the same people on the trail each day, and in the evenings, everyone would gather and ask how the day had been. The menu was extremely limited since all food had to be carried up the mountain, but this only made us more grateful for what went into each meal. And the tea? Incredible. Ash and I are both coffee drinkers, but we found ourselves drawn to the elaborate tea options. There was something perfect about sipping hot tea after a long day of hiking. Fresh pomegranates and apples were offered throughout the trek, and we truly felt so well taken care of.

Namche Bazaar: The Sherpa Capital

The next leg of our trek took us to Namche Bazaar, a 10-to-12-kilometer hike that took between six and seven hours. This was the point where I really began to understand why Ash had wanted to come to Nepal so badly. Namche was absolutely incredible. Built into the side of a mountain, it was a lively little town full of bakeries, cafes, and breathtaking views.

We planned to spend two nights here to acclimate, with an acclimatization hike to Everest View Hotel, which sits at 3,880 meters. That’s when altitude sickness hit. As we started our hike, Cooper began feeling sick and started vomiting. Puru immediately took charge, checking his vitals with a pulse oximeter and running other tests. It was determined that he shouldn’t go any higher that day, so I took him back down to Namche while Ash and Lila continued.

By the next day, Cooper felt better, but Lila admitted she had felt headachy the day before, and she wasn’t eager to go any higher either. We adjusted our plan. Instead of the full trek to Tengboche and Khumjung Village, the kids and I spent another day wandering Namche while Ash and the two porters hiked as far as they felt comfortable going. It turned out to be the right decision.

The Trek Back to Lukla: Rain, Crowds, and Yak Cheese

The final stretch of our trek should have been uneventful, but two things made it more challenging than expected. First, it rained. After days of perfect weather, the rain made everything colder and much more slippery. Second, crowds. When we were hiking up, we had encountered other travelers, but for the most part, it had been peaceful. On our way back, it was packed. Because no flights had departed for five days, there was a huge number of trekkers starting out at the same time. We hadn’t realized how lucky we had been until that moment.

Once we made it back to Lukla, we discovered something that made the entire trek worth it—fried yak cheese. Maybe it was because we were cold and exhausted, but it was absolutely delicious. Crispy, salty, and warm, it was the perfect post-hike treat.

Nepal: A Surprise Favorite

Despite my initial fears, Nepal turned out to be one of my absolute favorite stops. The views were stunning, the people were kind, and the entire experience was unforgettable. The trails were lined with handwritten signs wishing hikers good luck on their Everest journey. And who knew? I actually liked yak cheese.

Would I go back? Maybe even try the Annapurna Circuit? If there’s yak cheese, count me in.